A concrete driveway costs $8-$22 per square foot installed, with most residential jobs landing between $10 and $16 per square foot once you add up the slab, sub-base, rebar, labor, and finish. On a standard 480 square foot single-car driveway, that puts the all-in number somewhere between $4,800 and $7,700.

That range is real, and it matters. A 4-inch broom-finished slab on flat ground with good access and no demolition is a fundamentally different project than a 6-inch stamped driveway with demo of an old asphalt surface and tight side-yard access. Both are “concrete driveways.” They do not cost the same.

This guide breaks down every variable that moves the number so you understand what you are actually paying for and can read a bid intelligently.

Quick Answer: Concrete Driveway Cost by Project Type

Project Type	Cost Per SF	Typical Total (500 SF)
Basic broom finish, 4-inch slab	$8-$12	$4,000-$6,000
Standard residential, 5-inch with rebar	$11-$16	$5,500-$8,000
Stamped concrete, 5-inch	$18-$28	$9,000-$14,000
Exposed aggregate finish	$14-$20	$7,000-$10,000
Colored concrete (integral)	$13-$19	$6,500-$9,500
Demo of existing surface + new install	Add $2-$6/SF	Add $1,000-$3,000

Use our concrete cost per yard calculator to get a materials estimate for your project size, and our concrete calculator to figure out exactly how many cubic yards you need before calling suppliers.

What Drives Concrete Driveway Cost

Most homeowners look at a bid and see one number. Here is what is behind it.

Slab Thickness

Thickness is the single biggest driver of concrete volume, and concrete is usually the largest material line item. It also directly affects the structural performance of your driveway.

Thickness	Cubic Yards per 100 SF	Best For
4 inches	1.23 yd	Light passenger cars, excellent base, flat ground
5 inches	1.54 yd	Standard residential, trucks, most soil conditions
6 inches	1.85 yd	RVs, heavy trailers, clay soil, freeze-thaw climates

My honest take: pour 5 inches. Going from 4 to 5 inches adds roughly 25% more concrete cost on the slab, but the jump in load capacity and crack resistance is significant. I have torn out too many 4-inch driveways that failed within 5-7 years because the homeowner saved a few hundred dollars on the initial pour. That is not a trade worth making.

If you have clay soil, if vehicles heavier than a pickup truck will use the driveway, or if you are in a region with hard freeze-thaw cycles, go to 6 inches. The concrete cost increase is about $1.50-$2.50 per square foot. The cost to replace a failed slab is $10,000+.

Reinforcement: Rebar vs. Wire Mesh vs. Fiber

Reinforcement keeps a cracked slab from deteriorating into chunks. The type you use matters.

Rebar is the standard for residential driveways. Number 4 (#4, 1/2-inch diameter) rebar on an 18-inch grid in both directions is what I spec on most jobs. Number 3 (#3, 3/8-inch) is acceptable for very light-duty slabs on excellent soil. Cost runs $0.40-$1.00 per linear foot for the bar, plus labor to place and tie it.

On a 500 SF driveway with #4 rebar on an 18-inch grid, you need roughly 850-950 linear feet of bar. At $0.70 per foot, that is about $600-$665 in material. Use the rebar spacing calculator to get exact quantities so you are not guessing when you call the supplier.

Wire mesh (welded wire fabric) costs less on material but is notoriously hard to position at mid-slab depth during a pour. Finishers stepping on it push it down into the base. It ends up at the bottom of the slab where it does almost nothing. If a contractor is offering wire mesh instead of rebar to cut costs, ask them directly how they keep it in position during the pour. Their answer will tell you a lot.

Fiber mesh additive gets blended in at the plant for $5-$10 per yard. It distributes micro-fibers through the entire slab and reduces plastic shrinkage cracking. It is a good add for most residential driveways, but it does not replace rebar for a slab carrying vehicle loads. Use both.

Finish Type

The finish type affects both material cost and labor time. Labor is where the real money is.

Finish	Added Cost per SF	Notes
Broom finish	$0 (included in base)	Standard, practical, good traction
Salt finish	+$1-$2	Rock salt pressed in, washed out. Textured look
Exposed aggregate	+$3-$6	Seeded or washed. Attractive, durable
Colored (integral pigment)	+$1.50-$3	Pigment added at plant
Stamped concrete	+$8-$18	Most labor-intensive. Requires experienced crew
Brushed + colored	+$3-$5	Good middle ground on cost vs. aesthetics

Stamped concrete on a driveway looks great when it is done well. It also looks terrible when it is not. This finish requires an experienced crew and the right weather window. Stamping has to happen at exactly the right point in the cure, and there is no going back if the timing is off. If you are going stamped, verify the contractor has done driveway-scale stamped work before, not just small patios.

Demolition of Existing Surface

If you are replacing an old concrete or asphalt driveway, demo adds real cost.

Breaking and removal of existing concrete: $1.50-$4.00 per square foot. Concrete is heavy. A 4-inch slab weighs about 50 pounds per square foot. On a 500 SF driveway, that is 12-13 tons of material to break, haul, and dispose of. Dump fees in most markets run $75-$150 per ton for concrete. Some contractors recycle it as road base.

Asphalt removal: $1.00-$3.00 per square foot. Easier to break up than concrete, but still requires a demo crew, equipment, and hauling.

Why demo costs vary so much: Easy equipment access with a small excavator makes demo fast. A tight backyard or no gate means jack-hammering by hand. That is a day of labor difference on some jobs.

If your existing driveway has trees nearby, factor in root removal. Tree roots under a concrete driveway are one of the most common reasons slabs fail, and simply pouring over them guarantees another failure in 5-10 years. Get them out first.

Sub-Base Preparation

Every driveway needs a properly prepared sub-base. This step is not glamorous and it is not visible in the finished product, but it is what separates a driveway that lasts 30 years from one that cracks in 5.

Standard sub-base: 4-6 inches of compacted crushed gravel. Cost runs $1.50-$3.00 per square foot for material and compaction.

When you need more: Clay soil, recently filled areas, or ground with high organic content may need 8-12 inches of gravel plus geotextile fabric under it. Soil compaction testing ($200-$500) is worth it on questionable ground before you pour.

The excavation to get below the frost line and establish correct grade adds to this cost. On a flat lot with easy skid steer access, excavation runs $0.75-$1.50 per square foot. On a sloped lot or tight access, figure $1.50-$3.00+.

A contractor who talks specifically about compacted gravel depth and compaction method during the bid conversation is a contractor who understands foundations. One who glosses over it is often planning to cut corners there.

Access and Site Conditions

Access drives labor cost more than most homeowners realize.

Easy access means a truck can get close, the chute reaches the pour, and a skid steer can handle grading and base work. This is what the base labor rates assume.

Hard access means concrete being wheeled in by barrow, equipment that cannot fit in the space, or a truck that has to pump 80 feet. Add $1-$3 per square foot for difficult access situations. On a 600 SF driveway, that is $600-$1,800 just for access difficulty.

Slope adds forming complexity and careful screeding. Organic material in the excavation (old tree roots, soft topsoil) means more soil removal and deeper base. Rocky ground means more excavation cost. Call out every site condition when you get bids so contractors price the actual job.

Worked Example 1: Standard 12x40 Single-Car Driveway, No Demo

Size: 480 square feet, 5-inch slab, broom finish Site: Flat lot, good equipment access, solid granular soil

Excavation and 5-inch compacted gravel base: 480 SF x $2.25 = $1,080
Ready-mix concrete: 480 SF needs 7.4 yards + 10% waste = 8.2 yards. Order 8.5 yards at $155/yd = $1,318
Fiber mesh additive: 8.5 yards x $8 = $68
Forms (straight run, 2x6 lumber): material $120, labor $180 = $300
Rebar #4 on 18-inch grid: ~850 LF x $0.70 = $595
Rebar labor (place and tie): 480 SF x $0.50 = $240
Concrete labor (pour, screed, float, broom, control joints): 480 SF x $9.00 = $4,320
Control joint saw-cutting (4 cuts): $150

Total estimated cost: $8,071 Cost per square foot: $16.81

This is a real number for a clean job: no demo, flat ground, easy access, experienced crew. On the low end for this type of job in most markets.

Worked Example 2: 24x40 Two-Car Driveway with Asphalt Demo, Colored Broom Finish

Size: 960 square feet, 5-inch slab, integral color, broom finish Site: Replacing cracked asphalt driveway, suburban lot, standard access, moderate slope

Asphalt demo and haul: 960 SF x $2.00 = $1,920
Excavation and 6-inch compacted gravel base (slope required deeper base): 960 SF x $2.75 = $2,640
Ready-mix with integral color: 960 SF needs 14.8 yards + 10% waste = 16.3 yards. Order 17 yards at $180/yd (includes color charge) = $3,060
Fiber mesh: 17 yards x $8 = $136
Forms (some angled cuts for flare): material $220, labor $320 = $540
Rebar #4 on 18-inch grid: ~1,700 LF x $0.70 = $1,190
Rebar labor: 960 SF x $0.50 = $480
Concrete labor, pour and broom finish: 960 SF x $9.50 = $9,120
Color upcharge on finishing: 960 SF x $2.00 = $1,920
Control joints (8 cuts): $280
Sealer (colored concrete needs sealer): 960 SF x $0.80 = $768

Total estimated cost: $22,054 Cost per square foot: $22.97

This is a realistic all-in number for a two-car replacement job with demo, a modest decorative upgrade, and a sloped lot. Not the most expensive scenario, not the cheapest. Real middle ground for a quality residential job.

Regional Pricing Differences

Concrete driveway pricing varies significantly by location. The numbers in this guide represent a reasonable national average, but your market may look quite different.

High-cost markets (San Francisco Bay Area, Seattle, New York City, Boston, Hawaii): Expect 35-60% above national averages. A driveway that runs $12/SF in Kansas City can run $18-$20/SF in the Bay Area. Labor costs drive most of this difference.

Mid-range markets (Denver, Phoenix, Dallas, Charlotte): Close to national averages. $10-$16/SF for a standard residential driveway is typical.

Lower-cost markets (rural Midwest, parts of the Southeast, Gulf Coast): National average figures may actually be on the high side. $8-$13/SF is achievable for basic work in these markets.

Materials: Concrete plant proximity matters. If the nearest plant is 40 miles away, expect higher material costs and potential short-load fees. Distance adds to the per-yard price because the driver is burning time and the truck is taking longer to turn around.

Seasonal demand: In northern markets, concrete work is compressed into 6-7 months of the year. Peak demand in spring and early summer can add 10-20% to labor rates compared to fall scheduling. If your project can wait until September, you may get better pricing.

How to Read a Concrete Driveway Bid

After 20 years in the trades, the thing I see trip up homeowners most often is not the total number on the bid - it is what is not in the bid.

Ask every contractor these specific questions:

What thickness are you bidding? (Get inches on paper, not “standard.”)
What is the sub-base depth and compaction method?
Are you using rebar or wire mesh? What size and spacing?
Is the short-load fee included if my job is under their minimum?
What finish type is in this bid? Broom finish and stamped are not the same price.
Is demolition and haul-away included, or is that separate?
Who pays for expansion joint material and saw-cutting?
What is the PSI spec on the concrete?

A contractor who has clear, specific answers to all of these is a contractor who has actually priced the job. A contractor who gets vague or defensive is often leaving scope out to win on price and planning to change-order you later. That is the oldest game in the trades.

Good, fast, or cheap. Pick two. The cheapest bid almost always gets there by leaving things out of scope or planning to cut corners on the sub-base and reinforcement where you cannot see it. By the time the slab is cracking in year three, they are long gone.

For a fast sanity check on whether your bids are in the right ballpark, Try EstimationPro free and run a materials and labor estimate before the contractors show up.

Concrete Driveway Cost vs. Asphalt and Pavers

It is worth knowing where concrete sits relative to the alternatives.

Surface Type	Installed Cost	Lifespan	Maintenance
Concrete	$8-$22/SF	25-50 years	Sealing every 5-10 years
Asphalt	$4-$10/SF	15-30 years	Sealing every 2-5 years
Concrete pavers	$15-$35/SF	30-50+ years	Individual unit replacement
Gravel	$1-$4/SF	Ongoing	Annual top-up
Brick pavers	$25-$60/SF	40-100 years	Resetting settled units

Asphalt wins on upfront cost. Concrete wins on lifetime cost for most homeowners when you factor in less frequent sealing, longer lifespan, and no softening in summer heat. Pavers beat both on repairability since you can pull and reset individual units without tearing out the whole surface.

In the Pacific Northwest where I work, concrete is the standard choice for driveways because it handles moisture and temperature cycling well. In very hot climates, asphalt can soften under heavy vehicles in direct sun. In freeze-thaw climates, both materials have trade-offs, but quality 5-6 inch concrete with fiber mesh and proper air entrainment handles it well.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a concrete driveway cost per square foot?

For a standard residential concrete driveway with 5-inch slab, rebar reinforcement, proper sub-base, and broom finish, budget $10-$16 per square foot installed in most U.S. markets. Simple 4-inch driveways in favorable site conditions can come in at $8-$12/SF. Decorative finishes like stamped or exposed aggregate push the number to $18-$28/SF.

How much does it cost to replace a concrete driveway?

Replacement adds demo cost on top of the new install. Expect $2-$4/SF to break out and haul existing concrete, or $1-$3/SF for asphalt removal. On a 500 SF driveway, add $1,000-$2,000 to the install cost for demo and disposal. Total replacement projects typically run $7,000-$14,000 for a single-car driveway, $12,000-$22,000 for a two-car driveway.

Is a thicker concrete driveway worth the extra cost?

Yes, in most cases. Going from 4 to 5 inches increases concrete volume by about 25%, but significantly increases load capacity and crack resistance. If you have any heavy vehicles, questionable soil, or a freeze-thaw climate, 5 inches is not a luxury - it is what you need. The concrete cost difference is roughly $1.50-$2.50/SF. The cost to tear out a failed slab and repour is $15+/SF.

How long does a concrete driveway last?

A properly installed concrete driveway with good sub-base, adequate reinforcement, and correct thickness lasts 25-50 years. I have seen concrete driveways that are 40 years old and still solid. I have also seen ones that started cracking in 3 years because someone skipped the base prep or went too thin to save money. Installation quality matters more than almost anything else.

What PSI concrete should I use for a driveway?

3,500 PSI is the standard for residential driveways in most climates. Use 4,000 PSI in freeze-thaw climates or for driveways carrying heavy loads regularly. The upgrade from 3,500 to 4,000 PSI typically adds $10-$15 per yard. On a 10-yard pour, that is $100-$150 for meaningfully better durability. Worth it.

Do I need a permit for a new concrete driveway?

In most municipalities, yes - at minimum for the apron where the driveway meets the public street, which often involves cutting the curb. The main driveway may or may not require a permit depending on your city or county. Always check with the local building department first. A contractor who says permits are not needed without checking is either uninformed or trying to avoid the inspection process. Neither is a good sign.

Can I pour a concrete driveway myself?

Technically possible. Practically very difficult. A single-car driveway needs 7-9 yards of concrete. The timing from truck arrival to final finish is tight, especially in warm weather when concrete sets faster. Getting a large area screeded, floated, and finished before it cures requires a practiced crew. DIY concrete driveways I have seen almost always have visible cold joints, low spots, or poor edge work. If you are set on DIY, keep it under 200 SF and have experienced help. For a full driveway, hire professionals.

How long before I can drive on a new concrete driveway?

Wait 7 days minimum for passenger vehicles. For heavier trucks, trailers, or RVs, wait 14 days. Full structural cure takes 28 days. The first week is when the slab is most vulnerable. Tire marks from turning on fresh concrete are a common and preventable problem that comes from driving on it too soon.

For complete project estimates that include materials, labor, and sub-base, Try EstimationPro free to build a line-item breakdown before your contractor bids come in. Knowing what a fair number looks like before the bids arrive means you will spot low-ball bids that leave scope out, and you will understand why an honest bid costs what it does.

To calculate exactly how many cubic yards your driveway requires, use our concrete calculator. For current ready-mix pricing in your area, the concrete cost per yard tool gives you a regional baseline to price against.

Regional pricing disclaimer: All cost ranges in this guide represent national averages compiled from contractor pricing data across U.S. markets. Actual costs in your area may vary significantly based on local labor rates, material availability, concrete plant proximity, and market demand. High-cost metros like San Francisco, Seattle, New York, and Boston typically run 35-60% above these figures. Always get at least three local bids for your specific project. These numbers are a baseline for informed comparison, not a guaranteed quote.

Concrete Driveway Cost: Real Numbers for Every Variable