How to Estimate Fence Installation

To estimate fence installation, measure the total linear footage of the fence run, multiply by the installed cost per linear foot for your material, then add gates, post concrete, demolition, and any slope or grade adjustments.

That is the core of every fence estimate. Everything else is just filling in the details correctly. Miss one of those line items and your bid either leaves money on the table or prices you out of the job.

I have been building fences for over twenty years, and the contractors who struggle with estimates are usually not bad at measuring. They are bad at accounting for the stuff that does not show up in the linear footage.

Quick Answer: What Does Fence Installation Cost Per Linear Foot?

Here is a fast reference for installed fence costs, meaning material and labor combined:

Fence Type	Low	Typical	High
Wood privacy	$15/LF	$28/LF	$45/LF
Chain link	$10/LF	$18/LF	$30/LF
Vinyl	$20/LF	$35/LF	$50/LF
Aluminum	$25/LF	$40/LF	$60/LF

Labor alone runs $5 to $20 per linear foot, with $10 per linear foot being typical on a straightforward residential job. Regional pricing varies significantly. A fence job in rural Oregon will not price the same as one in the Bay Area or Phoenix.

Use the Fence Calculator to run these numbers fast for your specific job before you commit to a final figure.

How Do You Use the Linear Foot Method for Fence Estimates?

The linear foot method is the industry standard for fencing because it bundles materials and labor into a single trackable unit. Here is how to apply it step by step.

Step 1: Walk and measure the property line. Use a measuring wheel or laser measure. Do not trust a customer’s survey or a plot map without verifying in the field. Lot dimensions on paper rarely match what you find on site, especially on older properties.

Step 2: Count your corners and transitions. Every corner adds time. Every transition to a different fence height, material, or footing depth is a cost line that does not appear in the linear footage.

Step 3: Locate all gates. Gates come out of the linear footage count (the gate itself replaces fence in that opening), but gates are priced separately and always cost more than the fence they replace. A basic walk gate installed runs $100 to $600, with $300 being typical. A double drive gate or a heavy-duty gate with a closer and latch hardware can push past that range.

Step 4: Apply your per-linear-foot installed price. Multiply total fence footage by your per-LF number. That is your base number.

Step 5: Add gates, concrete, demolition, and grade adjustments on top. Never fold these into the LF rate. Keep them as separate line items so the customer can see exactly what they are paying for and you can adjust each one if scope changes.

Worked Example 1: Standard Wood Privacy Fence

A homeowner wants a 6-foot wood privacy fence around their backyard. You walk the property and measure:

• Back fence run: 80 LF
• Left side run: 45 LF
• Right side run: 45 LF
• Two walk gates, one on each side

Total fence: 170 LF minus 6 LF for two 3-foot gate openings = 164 LF of fence

At $28/LF installed: 164 x $28 = $4,592

Gates: 2 x $300 = $600

Concrete (see next section): $280

Total estimate: $5,472

That is a clean, justifiable number you can put in front of a customer with confidence.

How Much Concrete Do You Need Per Fence Post?

This is where a lot of estimators undercount their material costs. Concrete is not optional on any fence installation that expects to last.

Standard spacing for wood and vinyl fence is one post every 8 feet on a 6-foot fence. For a 164 LF fence in the example above:

164 LF / 8 feet per section = approximately 21 sections = 22 posts (you always add one for the last end post)

Add gate posts: each gate needs two posts, so two gates add 4 posts. Total: 26 posts.

For a 6-foot privacy fence, you need posts set at least 2 feet deep, ideally 2.5 feet. An 8-inch diameter hole at 2.5 feet deep needs roughly 2 bags of 80lb concrete per post.

26 posts x 2 bags = 52 bags of 80lb concrete

At $7 per bag: 52 x $7 = $364 in concrete

For the worked example above, I used $280 because I estimated 20 standard posts plus the 4 gate posts at a shallower average depth on that particular job. Always do the actual math for each job. Use the Concrete Calculator to get the volume right before you price your bags.

What About Fence Demolition and Removal?

Demo is one of the most consistently underpriced line items in fencing. Removing an old fence takes real time, especially if:

• Posts were set in concrete (now you are digging, not just pulling)
• The old fence is rotten and falling apart (harder to handle, messier)
• Disposal fees apply in your area (dump fees, haul-away)

A reasonable way to estimate demo is by linear footage as well. Light demo on a wood fence with posts that pull cleanly: $2 to $5/LF. Concrete-set posts or heavy chain link: $5 to $12/LF. Always walk the old fence before quoting demo. Do not guess.

On a 170 LF job with concrete-set posts, figure $8/LF for demo: 170 x $8 = $1,360 in demo labor. That is real money and it belongs in your estimate.

Worked Example 2: Chain Link Replacement with Demo

A property manager calls for a chain link fence replacement around a small commercial lot. Old chain link needs to come out.

Measurements:

• Total perimeter: 220 LF
• One double drive gate (12-foot opening)
• Old fence is chain link with concrete-footed posts

Fence: 220 - 12 (gate opening) = 208 LF of new chain link at $18/LF = $3,744

Gate: One double drive gate at $500 (heavier hardware, larger opening) = $500

Concrete: 208 LF / 10 feet per post (chain link standard spacing) = 21 posts + 2 gate posts = 23 posts x 2 bags = 46 bags x $7 = $322

Demo: 220 LF x $10/LF (concrete-set posts, commercial site) = $2,200

Total estimate: $6,766

A contractor who forgot the demo line would have bid $4,566 and either eaten the loss or had a bad conversation with the client.

How Does Slope and Grade Affect a Fence Estimate?

Sloped ground is one of the most overlooked cost factors in fencing. It affects both labor time and material requirements in ways that do not show up in a linear footage rate built for flat ground.

Racking vs. stepping. On moderate slopes, a wood or vinyl fence can be racked, meaning the rails angle with the grade. On steeper slopes, you step the fence panels, which means each panel drops in a stair-step pattern and you end up with triangular gaps at the bottom or extra materials to fill them.

Post depth increases. On a slope, every post is at a different height above grade. You may need taller posts on the downhill side of every section to keep the top rail level or to match fence height above the highest ground point.

Labor increases. Grade work is slower. Digging post holes on a slope is harder. Figure a 15 to 25 percent labor premium on runs with meaningful grade change. For severe grades (more than 2 feet of drop per 8-foot section), consider a separate line item for custom framing or infill work.

When you are on site, note the grade and document it. Take photos. When pricing, show the grade adjustment as its own line item so the customer understands why the sloped back section costs more per foot than the flat front section.

Pro Tips for Accurate Fence Estimates

Measure twice, especially corners. When a fence turns a corner, the post at that corner belongs to both runs. Do not count it twice in your material takeoff.

Photograph everything before you dig. Underground utilities, old concrete footings, tree roots. Your pre-work photos protect you if something comes up during installation.

Build in a post count buffer. On jobs with irregular spacing, odd corners, or double gates, add one or two posts to your material count. A post sitting in inventory is far better than a crew that has to stop and run to the lumber yard.

Price gates at their real cost. A gate is a hinge, a latch, a frame, and a panel, plus the two gate posts set deeper than standard posts. $300 is a typical starting point for a basic walk gate. Anything with an automatic opener, drop rod, or commercial hardware needs its own line item.

Do not fold concrete into your LF rate. When you do, customers who want a longer fence get a hidden discount and customers who want a shorter fence get overcharged. Keep concrete as a separate quantity takeoff.

Always add a site-specific notes section to your estimate. Call out the grade, the demo situation, any utility conflicts, the access constraints. This protects you and shows professionalism.

For larger or more complex projects, the Construction Cost Estimator gives you a framework to organize all of these line items in one place. And if you want a repeatable process for building any type of construction bid from scratch, the guide on how to estimate construction jobs walks through the full workflow. For tips on putting together a bid that actually wins, see construction bid tips.

Common Mistakes Contractors Make on Fence Estimates

Forgetting gate posts in the post count. A 3-foot walk gate needs two gate posts, not one. Miss this on a job with four gates and you are short eight posts.

Using one LF rate for the whole job. A fence with 100 feet of flat ground and 60 feet of steep slope should not use a single average rate. Price each section by its actual conditions.

Ignoring local permit requirements. Many municipalities require a permit for any fence over a certain height. Permit fees, setback requirements, and inspection visits all cost time. Know your local rules before you bid.

Underpricing demo on old concrete-set posts. If the old posts were set in concrete and you need to remove them, you are not just pulling fence. You may need a breaker bar, a come-along, or a mini excavator. Price it accordingly.

Missing disposal costs. Hauling away 200 linear feet of old wood fence plus concrete post footings adds up. Dumpster fees, dump fees, or haul-away charges belong in the estimate.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to install 100 linear feet of wood fence? A two-person crew can typically install 100 linear feet of standard 6-foot wood privacy fence in one full day, assuming flat ground, no demo, and pre-dug holes. Add half a day for demo, concrete post removal, or difficult terrain.

How many posts do I need per linear foot of fence? For wood and vinyl fence, plan on one post every 8 feet. For chain link, spacing is typically 10 feet. Always add posts at corners, gates, and any fence transition points.

Do I need a permit to install a fence? It depends on your municipality. Many areas require a permit for fences over 6 feet, fences on corner lots, or fences near easements and right-of-ways. Check local code before you bid or start work. Permit fees and timeline should be in your estimate if required.

How do I estimate concrete for fence posts? Calculate your post count, then figure two 80lb bags of concrete per post for a 6-foot fence (posts set 2 to 2.5 feet deep in a standard 8-inch diameter hole). Deeper soils or taller fences need more concrete per post. Use a concrete volume calculator to verify before ordering.

What is the most accurate way to estimate a fence job? Walk the property yourself, measure the actual fence line with a measuring wheel, count every gate and corner, note the grade, assess the demo situation, and build a line-item estimate rather than using a single installed cost. A line-item estimate is easier to defend, easier to adjust, and reveals your profit margin by section.

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For a complete breakdown of material and installed costs by fence type, the Fence Cost Guide covers wood, vinyl, chain link, and aluminum with regional pricing data. And if your labor rate needs a checkup, the Labor Cost Calculator helps you build a fully burdened rate that actually covers your overhead.

Pricing ranges reflect national averages as of early 2026. Regional labor markets, material costs, and local regulations vary. Always verify current material pricing with your supplier before finalizing a bid.

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