To estimate gravel for a driveway, multiply the length (ft) x width (ft) x depth (ft), divide by 27 to get cubic yards, then multiply by 1.15 to account for compaction. For a standard 100-foot, 12-foot-wide driveway at 4 inches deep, you need roughly 20-22 cubic yards.
Getting this right the first time saves you money and a second delivery charge. Get it wrong and you are either short-changing the base (which leads to ruts and soft spots within a season) or paying to haul away excess material. I have watched homeowners struggle with both. This guide walks through the full estimation process the way experienced contractors do it.
Quick Answer: Gravel Driveway Formula
Here is the core calculation most contractors use:
- Length (ft) x Width (ft) x Depth (ft) = cubic feet
- Cubic feet / 27 = cubic yards
- Cubic yards x 1.15 = adjusted yards (compaction factor)
- Cubic yards x 1.35 = approximate tons (varies by material density)
Use the Gravel Calculator to run these numbers instantly without the math.
The 1.15 compaction multiplier is the number most DIYers skip. Loose gravel compacts when driven over, so what arrives fluffy at 1 yard will settle to roughly 0.85 yards after a few weeks of traffic. Ordering without this buffer guarantees you will run thin.
How Much Depth Does a Gravel Driveway Actually Need?
Depth is where most estimates go wrong. The right answer depends on what you are building on top of and what kind of traffic the driveway will handle.
Standard residential driveway (cars and light trucks):
- Subbase layer (compactable fill or crusher run): 4-6 inches
- Top layer (pea gravel or decorative stone): 2-3 inches
- Total finished depth: 6-9 inches
Heavy-use driveway (trucks, RVs, contractors):
- Subbase: 6-8 inches
- Top layer: 3-4 inches
- Total: 9-12 inches
If you are doing a single-layer driveway with crusher run or processed gravel, aim for at least 4 inches compacted. On soft or clay soil, go 6 inches. On sandy or well-draining soil, 4 inches may hold up fine.
The depth you choose has a huge impact on material cost, so nail this down before you call for a quote.
Worked Example 1: Standard Two-Car Driveway
Scenario: 80 feet long, 16 feet wide, 4-inch depth, using crushed stone for the base.
Step 1 - Volume in cubic feet: 80 x 16 x 0.333 (4 inches = 0.333 ft) = 426 cubic feet
Step 2 - Convert to cubic yards: 426 / 27 = 15.8 cubic yards
Step 3 - Apply compaction factor: 15.8 x 1.15 = 18.2 cubic yards
Step 4 - Convert to tons: 18.2 x 1.35 = 24.6 tons
Cost estimate:
- Crushed stone at $55/yard: 18.2 x $55 = $1,001
- Or by ton at $45/ton: 24.6 x $45 = $1,107
- Delivery: $100-$150 for one truck (may require two loads)
Always get quotes in both yards and tons. Suppliers price it differently and the cheaper unit depends on the material’s density.
Worked Example 2: Long Rural Driveway With Two Layers
Scenario: 200-foot driveway, 12 feet wide. Crusher run base at 6 inches, pea gravel top at 2 inches.
Base layer (crusher run): 200 x 12 x 0.5 = 1,200 cubic feet / 27 = 44.4 yards x 1.15 = 51.1 yards
Top layer (pea gravel): 200 x 12 x 0.167 = 400.8 cubic feet / 27 = 14.8 yards x 1.15 = 17.1 yards
Total material:
- Crusher run: 51.1 yards at $55/yard = $2,811
- Pea gravel: 17.1 yards at $40/yard = $684
- Two deliveries: $200-$400
- Total material estimate: $3,695-$3,895
This is material only. Grading, spreading, and compaction with equipment adds labor costs on top.
Gravel Type Comparison: Which Material Should You Use?
Not all gravel is the same, and the type affects both cost and performance.
| Material | Typical Cost/Yard | Best Use | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Crusher run / processed gravel | $35-$65 | Base layers, high-traffic drives | Compacts well, locks in place |
| Crushed stone (#57) | $45-$80 | Drainage, top layer | Does not compact tight, stays loose |
| Pea gravel | $30-$60 | Decorative top layer, walkways | Round shape, tends to scatter |
| Road base / caliche | $30-$55 | Rural driveways, base | Regional availability varies |
| Recycled concrete | $20-$45 | Budget base layer | Hard to find uniformly graded |
Prices vary significantly by region. Material that costs $35/yard in the rural Midwest may run $65-$75/yard in coastal California or the Pacific Northwest because of hauling distance. Always get local quotes, the ranges above are national averages.
Tons vs. Cubic Yards: Which Should You Order By?
This confuses a lot of people. Here is the short version.
Cubic yards measure volume. Tons measure weight. Suppliers use both, and which one they quote depends on their equipment and how they sell material.
The conversion factor depends on the material:
- Crusher run / road base: 1 yard = approximately 1.35-1.45 tons
- Pea gravel: 1 yard = approximately 1.2-1.3 tons
- Crushed limestone: 1 yard = approximately 1.4-1.5 tons
When a supplier quotes by the ton and you calculated in yards, multiply your yards by the appropriate factor above. When in doubt, ask your supplier what their material’s density is. They will know.
The Gravel Calculator handles this conversion automatically so you can compare quotes apples to apples.
How Does Delivery Work and What Does It Cost?
Gravel delivery pricing is often the hidden variable that blows budgets.
What affects delivery cost:
- Distance from the quarry or yard (most suppliers have a base zone, then a per-mile charge)
- Load size (full dump truck vs. partial load)
- Number of trips required
- Access to your property (steep grades, low-hanging trees, soft soil near the road)
Typical delivery costs:
- Short haul, local quarry: $50-$100 per load
- Standard residential delivery: $100-$150 per load
- Long haul or rural: $150-$200+ per load
A standard dump truck holds 10-14 cubic yards or roughly 15-20 tons. If your project needs 30 yards, budget for two deliveries.
Pro tip: Some suppliers will stage multiple loads for a small fee rather than making two separate delivery charges. Ask before you order.
If you have a soft driveway or a steep grade, talk to the driver before he backs in. A loaded truck can tear up a lawn edge fast or get stuck on a wet day. Having a staging area at the road and wheelbarrowing material in is slower but saves headaches.
Pro Tips for Accurate Gravel Estimates
Measure the actual driveway, not what you think it is. Most driveways are wider at the top near the garage and narrower at the road, or they curve. Break irregular shapes into rectangles and calculate each section separately, then add them together.
Account for crown and slope. A properly built driveway crowns in the center to drain water. This means the center is slightly thicker than the edges. Add 5-10% for this if you are doing proper grading.
Order 10-15% extra. Beyond the compaction factor, you will lose some material to overshoot at the edges, low spots that need extra fill, and material that migrates off the driveway edges over time. It is far cheaper to have a small pile leftover than to pay for a second partial delivery.
Compact in lifts. If you are putting down 6 inches of base, compact in two 3-inch passes rather than one deep pass. You get better compaction and more predictable settling. This also means your compaction factor loss (the 1.15 multiplier) is more accurate.
Get bids from at least two suppliers. Prices vary more than most people expect even within the same metro area. A few calls can save $200-$500 on a medium-sized job.
Common Mistakes That Blow Gravel Estimates
Estimating depth in inches but calculating in feet. This is the most common math error. Always convert your depth to feet before calculating. Four inches is 0.333 feet, not 4.
Skipping the compaction multiplier. This is the difference between a finished driveway that looks right and one that is thin and rutting by fall.
Forgetting about the subgrade. If your soil is soft, has roots, or has drainage issues, you may need to excavate before you add gravel. Excavated material needs to go somewhere. Factor in that cost or haul-away if it is significant.
Assuming one delivery is enough. Calculate your volume honestly before calling. Two deliveries almost always cost more than one large delivery, even if the second one is partial.
Buying decorative gravel for the whole driveway. Pea gravel and round stone do not compact. They are fine as a top layer but terrible as a base. Using them for the full depth wastes money and creates a spongy, unstable surface.
How Does Gravel Compare to Concrete?
Gravel is almost always cheaper upfront. Concrete runs $125-$175 per cubic yard installed for a standard residential driveway, compared to $35-$80 per yard for gravel material alone (before labor). On a 1,000-square-foot driveway, concrete often costs $4,000-$8,000 installed vs. $1,500-$3,500 for gravel.
Concrete has lower long-term maintenance but higher initial cost and more complex repair when it cracks. Gravel needs occasional regrading and topping off but is easy and cheap to repair.
If you are comparing both options, take a look at Concrete Cost Per Yard to run the numbers side by side. For a deeper look at how concrete driveway costs are broken down and what drives the price differences, the guide on how much concrete you need for a driveway covers the full calculation and cost comparison.
FAQ: Estimating Gravel for Driveways
How many cubic yards of gravel do I need for a 100-foot driveway? For a 100-foot driveway that is 12 feet wide and 4 inches deep, you need approximately 18-20 cubic yards after applying the compaction factor. Wider driveways or deeper depths increase that number proportionally.
How many tons of gravel is in a dump truck load? A standard dump truck holds 10-14 tons of gravel, or roughly 7-10 cubic yards depending on the material weight. Super dump trucks can carry up to 20+ tons. Confirm with your supplier before scheduling.
Should I use tons or yards to order gravel? Either works, but tons are more precise because volume measurements can vary with how loose or settled the material is. Convert your cubic yard calculation to tons using 1.35 as a multiplier for most crushed stone and road base materials.
How deep should a gravel driveway be? For normal residential use with cars and light trucks, 4 inches compacted is the minimum. Six inches is better for long-term durability, especially on clay soil. Heavy use (trucks, RVs) warrants 8-12 inches total depth with a proper base layer.
Do I need to add new gravel every year? Most gravel driveways need a top-up every 3-5 years rather than annually. The timeline depends on traffic volume, drainage, and whether edges are contained. Annual raking and occasional spot-filling keeps them looking good between major refreshes.
Regional Price Disclaimer
All material prices in this guide reflect national averages and ranges. Actual costs vary significantly by region based on quarry proximity, local competition, fuel costs, and material availability. Prices in dense metro areas often run 20-40% higher than rural markets. Always get at least two local supplier quotes before finalizing your budget.
Try EstimationPro free to generate a full driveway estimate with material quantities, costs, and delivery planning in minutes.
For larger landscaping projects that include gravel work alongside planting, grading, or hardscaping, the Landscaping Cost Calculator can help you scope the full project budget. And if you want the full framework for turning measurements into profitable bids, our guide on how to estimate construction jobs walks through the process step by step.
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